Happy Friday! Today officially became a highlight of my trip thanks to the
Delicious Dublin Food Tour. Our small, friendly group of eight — seven
Americans and one proud Canadian (that’s me!) — set off to explore the city’s
culinary soul. Our incredible guide, Sinéad, kicked things off with a
fascinating brief on Ireland's history, tracing its diet from simple foraged
land provisions through the era of farming and, of course, a necessary,
respectful touch on the Great Famine.
A Scone Revelation and a Guinness-Lookalike
Our first stop was Tang, a fantastic modern Irish café. Here, I had my first
true Irish Scone with plum and mixed berry jam. It was a revelation! These
scones are softer and far more tender than any I’ve had in Vancouver or
London. The jam had the perfect balance of sweetness and a lovely tartness.
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Scone with Plum and Mixed Berry Jam from Tang
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A short walk brought us to Wigwam for their famous, award-winning Irish Coffee
from Vice Coffee. Though I rarely drink coffee or alcohol, I had to give this
a shot. It was perfectly balanced: strong espresso (which certainly didn't
help my jetlag!), Dublin-original Teeling Whiskey, brown sugar syrup, and hot
water, all crowned with a layer of full-fat cream.
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Fancy Frankie Irish Coffee from Vice Coffee Award winning Irish coffee with Teeling small batch, espresso,
demarara, and spiced orange cream
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We were instructed not to mix it, much like you wouldn’t mix a pint of
Guinness — the cream acts as a beautiful cold, creamy head to the hot, dark
base.
Comparing the Classics: Stews and Coddle
We took a longer stroll across the iconic Ha'penny Bridge to Gallagher's Boxty
House. I was thrilled to be here, as this spot was already on my itinerary for
later! This stop was a masterclass in Irish comfort food, allowing us to
sample three different breads alongside a trio of stews.
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Partially eaten Stew Platter from Gallagher's Boxty House Irish stew, beef & stout, Dublin coddle, colcannon, and bread
selection
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Beef and Stout Stew: The rich stout (brewed by Gallagher's own
microbrewery, not Guinness) provided a deep, dark, and slightly sweet flavor
profile.
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Irish Stew: This was the classic, rustic dish, with a simpler, savory
broth base that allowed the flavor of the tender mutton and root vegetables
to truly shine.
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Dublin Coddle: This unique stew was my surprising favorite. It has a
light, pale broth with a wonderfully complex savoriness from the
slow-simmered pork, bacon, and aromatic vegetables like celery and thyme.
Trying all three side-by-side was an incredible experience, and the Coddle
still reigns supreme for me. I think I finally realized why: it reminds me of
Filipino nilaga (pork soup) with pork, potatoes, and onions, but the Coddle
has a unique, savory depth from the celery and that distinct, earthy touch of
thyme (I hope I'm right!).
The Sweet and Savory Finale
Next, it was off to dessert at Murphy's Ice Cream. This place is impressive
because they harvest their own salt in Dingle for the Dingle Sea Salt flavor —
it offers a fantastic sweet-and-salty balance. But the star was the Irish
Brown Bread flavor!
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Irish Brown Bread - Arán Donn and Dingle Sea Salt - Salann from Murphy's Ice Cream
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They bake the brown bread, caramelize it with muscovado sugar, and mix it into
the ice cream. The combination of the creamy ice cream and the little
textured, sweet, and nutty bits of bread was out of this world.
Our last stop was at Sheridans Cheesemongers for a cheese tasting, focusing on
Cork county:
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Durrus: A semi-soft, washed-rind cheese with a mild, buttery flavor
and a lovely pungency that builds with age.
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Coolea: A hard, Gouda-style cheese with a firm texture, a rich, nutty
flavor, and a satisfyingly long finish.
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Durrus and Coolea from Sheridans Cheesemongers
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I stayed to chat with Sinéad for a few extra minutes, asking for more food
suggestions around the city. She was truly amazing and absolutely deserved the
big tip.
This was my very first food tour, and I’m completely sold — I should start
dedicating a day for these on every vacation! Thank goodness for my employer,
who gave me a birthday voucher from Gifting Owl. What a blessed way to
experience a new city!